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An Increasingly Stable Array Of Independent Countries Based Slightly On Ethnic Populations, But Also On The Economic Imperatives Of Newly Found Independence : Capitalism, Development And Tourism!

Stumped? It's essentially a bit of a trick question. Geographically, the Balkan Promontory is thought of as Southeastern Europe - the landmass south of Austria and Hungary and east of Italy. It's known for rugged and remote mountains, spectacular coastline and fiercely partisan populations. The Adriatic is to the west, the Black Sea to the east, Greece at the southernmost tip.

But politically, the answer is dependent upon the year. Five centuries of war, oppression and ethnic conflict have melted and created nations on the Balkan Cape multiple times over. If you answered Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, Albania or Bosnia & Herzegovina (BiH) - A-plus! All of them have coastline on the Adriatic Sea. If you thought Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Macedonia, or Kosovo - C-plus. Balkans, although not Western Balkans. Yugoslavia? No go. It slumped over a decade ago.

The good news for travelers? An increasingly stable choice of independent nations based rather on ethnic populations, but also on the commercial imperatives of newly found independence : capitalism, development and tourism!

Dubrovnik, Croatia, is now a top destination on Eastern Mediterranean cruises, like the one Bud and I did in 2003. Our Dubrovnik guide lived thru the 1991-92 Serbian siege, and bullet holes were still everywhere. But Maria's hopefulness was transmissible. "Come back," she encouraged. "After the roads are fixed and borders opened, you'll love it."

Seven years after we landed in Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, on the first leg of a four-country Western Balkan road trip. Customs and immigration were smooth and efficient and our rental vehicle, a Czech Skoda Fabia, waited just steps from the terminal.

We'd drive northeast thru Slovenia's Julian Alps, south along coastal Croatia and down to Montenegro's beaches. We'd finish over Montenegro's legendary mountains and into BiH to finish in Sarajevo. Perhaps best, we were flying solo - no package tours, no booking agent. Just us!

Euro-GPS

We brought a GPS with a pre loaded Eastern European chip. First stop : iconic Lake Bled. Our GPS let us choose : back roads or highway. We took the smallest roads and were instantly smitten. Each home sported lush window boxes. In the foothills of the Julian Alps, each village reached higher, with taller ancient pines, and roads narrowing to single lanes, regularly weaving thru steep pastures. Around one corner a pristine church sat atop a brilliantly green hill.

Lake Bled's Grand Hotel Toplice was impressive and historic. It housed Fascist Officials during World War Ii, and was so celebrated the officials had to pay for rooms, although they were the occupying forces. The Toplice was full of talkative Brits and sporty Germans, and life revolved around the lake - shaded walkways along the coast, swans paddling about, boats with brightly colored covers to ferry visitors around. Lovely!

Our next stop took us even higher, to a sporthotel in Kranjska Gora. Sporthotels are clearly Western european : spare decoration, few luxuries, but huge rooms to hold skis and bikes. At the Toplice we were told that Northern Americans visit occasionally. In Kranjska Gora, Northern Americans are not common. We were treated like celebs and advised to go to the ski jump at close by Planica where the world record for ski-flying was set in 2005 : 717 feet "airborne" coming off the end of the jump.

We were warned about the drive over Slovenia's 9,300-foot peak, Mount Triglav, at the eastern end of the Alps. It was stormy and misty. The route was really steep and narrow with fifty or more switchbacks. "Follow a bus," they exclaimed. "It will lead you."

Great guidance! We appeared at our next stop, Lipica, in fine shape and prepared to go to the famed Lipizzaner Stud Farm in its 430th year of breeding and coaching the fascinating white horses. We caught the dramatic "Airs Above the Ground" equestrian show and marveled at the elegant facility with dressage schools, lodging, restaurants and marriage chapel as reported tagza.com.